Showing Off (the South island)

Back in New Zealand after the holidays in the States for work and play. If you have followed this blog, you know we have traveled the country rather extensively. Now was a good time for some fine tuning: going back to places for a second or third time, taking a few side trips or lingering a bit longer. In Fort Bragg, we would drive through Ukiah or the Anderson Valley on our way to elsewhere, so it took me 25 years to actually stop at the Mendocino County Fair in Booneville, for example.
When you drive the Inland Scenic Route to Christchurch, you cross the Rangitata River Gorge with some Grade 5 rapids. One of the other American doctors here arranged a day rafting excursion. It was not quite the Colorado, but it was a fun group outing.

A photo from the Internet. I was too scared to take my camera and too cheap to buy their CD.

The next river north as you skirt Mt. Hutt and the Southern Alps is the Rataia. The view of the valley is stunning and I always wanted to linger longer.
We spent Waitangi Day weekend nearby in Methven, a town in the news in 2014 when actor Chris Pine was arrested for "drink driving", as they call it here. Methven is the gateway to the ski area at Mt. Hutt, and a center for skydiving, hot air ballooning, and other extreme sports. There were several weddings going on, one with a reception at the Blue Pub featuring celebrants wearing animal-themed onesies doing activities like sheep racing and frozen chicken curling. They also love their plows in Methven, with not one but two monuments to the farm implement.. They even hosted the World Ploughing Championship in 2010!

Kiwis are also fond of statues of dogs (you will see another one later).

Rajah, the Wonder Dog

 There is a walking trail up the Rakaia River Gorge, with lovely views.

 If you have time, you can take a jet boat trip upstream too.

Another intriguing nearby spot is Castle Hill, a dramatic outcropping of  limestone you pass on your way across Arthur's Pass to the West Coast. This time I made sure we could stop and explore some, not just motor past.

Castle Hill

At work, I had been procrastinating and feeling a bit guilty in not doing my fair share when it came to being a speaker for our Tuesday Medical Grand Rounds, so I signed up months ago for a February date. As it has a tendency to do, time marched forward, so I spent a fair amount of time preparing. I decided to share everything of importance I had learned, in 50 minutes (with a little padding). I struggled at first with PowerPoint, but then learned a few tricks, and in the end I was quite happy with the results. I will not attach it all here, but below is the Title page, and another from the body of my talk.

Without a doubt, the biggest event in the last two months was the arrival of our esteemed visitor from the East, one Terry Kemp; friend, co-worker, and all-round good people. We were excited as she was our first visitor from Stateside in two years.

Ms. Kemp deplanes in Timaru

The challenge was to show here as much of the South Island as wee could in two weeks. After two nights in Timaru enjoying the sights and a bit of local rugby, we hit the road. First stop was Lake Tekapo, with the sheep dog statue and the Church of the Good Shepherd overlooking the milky blue lake.

Further south it was on to the regal Mt. Cook across Lake Pukaki.

Our previous visits here were in the winter and the trail overlooking Lake Tasman was closed, but this time we climbed up the ridge to see the glacier which regularly calves ice bergs into the lake.

At the visitors center I posed with a stuffed Himalayan tahr, a long-haired goat imported for hunting. Although I was ignorant of its existence before, little did I know that I would be dining on it later that evening in the Panorama Room of Hermitage Hotel. It was delicious: lean, a bit like venison.

The Tahr and I

No time to waste, on to Christchurch and a stop at the Bluff House in the Canterbury Museum for a dive into classic kiwiana, pub quiz, and a walk about the town.

Terry in the Paua Shell House

North from there we stopped in Kaikoura for the crayfish lunch, AKA: rock lobster. Deeeelicious!! (Some might say "nmummy".)

I had already made plans to attend the Autumn IMSANZ (Internal Medicine Society of Australia and New Zealand) Conference, held this year in Blenheim at the northern tip of the South Island. It is the heart of the Marlborough Region famous for white wines. It is also close to Picton and the ferry across Cook Straight to Wellington. While I was conferencing, I thought Terry's time would be better spent with two nights in the capital. She had a grand time, and on the way back briefly connected with former Fort Bragg surgeon Jonathon Pace (no photos, sorry).
Blenheim is also home to the Omaka Aviation Heritage Museum, featuring Sir Peter Jackson's amazing collection of WWI aircraft and artifacts, and where IMSANZ had a gala dinner. If you ever have the chance it is well worth a visit. If you were a kid who loved model planes and military paraphernalia and you grew up to be unbelievable rich and could make your dreams come true, this might be what you would do. Some of the planes are antiques, other reconstructions, all incredible, and displayed in tableau with the help of the talent from Wingnut Films and the Weta Workshop.

German Etrich Taube, or the Dove

French Nieuport 27 in a tree

Sir Peter has also collected many artifacts of the WWI aces, including The Red Baron, as well as relics from infamous Nazi Hermann Göring.

Diorama of the crash and death of Manfred von Richthoven- AKA: The Red Baron

The dinner was held in a hanger next to the museum, with a WWII spitfire in the backround, and some attendees wore aeronautical-themed outfits (but not us).

Rejoining with Terry, we spent a night in Nelson, a city we visited once in 2010. It was warm and welcoming, with lots of sidewalk cafes. One of the local MDs recommended the yurt in front of the brew pub serving Mexican food, but it was padlocked, so we enjoyed dining on the patio of the nearby Indian Restaurant.
From Nelson, we headed over the Southern Alps to the West Coast. Our visitor put a visit to the Pancake Rocks high on her list.

Punakaiki, or the Pancake Rocks

It has so happened that whenever I have gone to the West Coast it has been overcast, and although the peak of Mt. Cook is very near, I have never seen it from there. We did catch some Hector's dolphins frolicking in the surf at the mouth of the Grey River, but they were too quick for my camera.. The longest day in the car was from Greymouth to Wanaka, about seven hours. Wanaka is always nice, as is the dramatic drive over the Crown Range Road into Queenstown.

View of Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown from the top of the gondola

Queenstown is always fun, busy, and beautiful. The highlight was the day-long bus trip and cruise to Milford Sound. The bus ride is about 4 hours each way, but the scenery is spectacular as you drive through the deep glacial valleys. A popular stop en route is at Mirror lake, so named for obvious reasons.

The "money shot" is of Milford Sound with Mitre Peak in the backround, one of the most iconic NZ scenes.

We saw sunbathing fur seals.....

and plenty of waterfalls.

The return to town was delayed a bit after the bus driver "ran over" one of the other tourists. (Actually, the victim was an elderly Indian woman who was accidentally whacked on the head by the bus rear view mirror when it pulled out a little early and abruptly. Everyone survived, but it prolonged an already lengthy day.)
After Queenstown, we were off to Dunedin and out the very tip of Otago Peninsula to see roosting Northern Royal Albatrosses and chicks and a colony of Stewart Island Shags.

Dunedin Cathedral and Town Hall from the Octagon

Daddy albatross and chick

Shags with mud nests

On the final road day we headed north back to Timaru, stopping in at the Moeraki Boulders and the limestone Victorian buildings of Oamaru.

There was so much more we did with Terry, I get tired just thinking about it: good meals, good movies, and especially good fellowship. We are so glad she came and were sad to see her off. From Timaru, she flew to Wellington, took the train up to Auckland, and had a day there before the arduous trip home.

Ms. Kemp replanes in Timaru

The End ???