Monday, June 6, 2016

Southern Rambling





Gentle Blog Followers,
It has been a while since my last blog. Largely that is because these postings have reflected my enthusiasm over visiting new and exciting places, and sharing those with others with similar interests and curiosity. Being based in New Zealand for a while now, nearby Places of Interest have been covered at least broadly before. Our explorations lately have been of the more subtle nature, re-visiting places but going to more off-the-beaten-path attractions. You know what I mean: “We’ve been to ________(San Francisco, New York, Milwaukee) many times but never seen the ________(Asian Art Museum, Tenement Museum, Frank Lloyd Wright designed Greek Church)”, for example. It is tourism at the more refined next level.
Also, I am here to work, which is interesting in its own right, but not particularly appropriate for casual blogging. I try not to be too boring. This entry will have a slightly different structure and tone, so bear with me. I’ll begin with some reflections on mortality and politics, then go to the travelogue section, and end with ramblings on sports and culture. It is like a travel blog sandwich with tasty parts between two slices of deep thoughts (easy enough to skip if not your “cup of tea”).
Mortality
In pharmacology there is a concept of an LD (lethal dose) 50, the amount of a drug that will kill 50% of the people who take it. The Over/Under in gambling is a number designed to have a 50/50 split on bets for the final score, i.e.: over or under 50 points in a football game. I wonder what the Over/Under LD 50 is for my life. That would be the age when 50% of all of the people I have known or known of have passed away. That would include close and dear friends and family, vague acquaintances, character actors (“oh yeah, that guy”), and major cultural/social/political figures.
Mortality is something I encounter daily in my work and something everyone in my generation now faces. To obsess about it in your 20’s or 30’s, WoodyAllen-esque, is macabre and pathological. To ponder it at 65 is inevitable. This year has been globally brutal: Prince, Mohammad Ali, David Bowie, George Martin, Glenn Frey, Alan Rickman, etc, etc. They all added some meaning and/or joy to my life. As Hippocrates said, “Life is short, art is long”. Prince performed in Auckland earlier this year. I found out too late, otherwise would have tried to go. I better see Stevie Wonder next time I have a chance.
I am not morose and I feel fine, but hear the clock faintly ticking. I feel I am in some Science Fiction movie where the people in my cosmos are gradually fading out and the world is getting smaller and smaller.
Politics
I’ll be brief. Everyone around the globe is befuddled and terrified about Trump. I know it dominates the conversation in the US, but if you travel, it will only be a matter of minutes before you as an American are asked to explain the phenomenon. Any suggestions? I knew when Obama was elected it did not mean we were in a post-racial society, but this is ridiculous. I am reminded of the favorite bathroom stall graffiti I saw at age 16: “20 billion flies can’t be wrong- Eat Shit!” Democracy in action.

A Closer Look Around the South Island
Timaru
Timaru as the lovely place I know, not as you may have read

New Zealand is a small country and on slow news days stories from the hinterland go nationwide. Timaru has been featured frequently in headlines in 2016. For instance, Timaru has been searching for a new slogan, and an informal poll favored Timaz Hard! This stirred debate, as no one over 30 had any idea what it meant. The Council rejected it for now, but if you follow this link here, someone has compiled a list of alternatives that would make David Letterman proud.
Other recent less-than-flattering items include:
Perhaps the Council needs to beef up the PR Department?

This place has fascinated me since we first wandered through last year. On a narrow side road with no people around you will find these random works of art: billboards, sculptures, animal pelts on fences stretch across a barren rocky landscape. Most of this is sponsored by the largest gold mine in NZ. The bargain Australian-based OceanaGold made with the locals was "if you let us dig this giant pit mine, we promise to restore the land better than we found it. Art will bloom on the plains, and slag heaps will be remodeled into harmonious mesas, and throngs will gather in awe." We shall see, but for now, it is oddly compelling.
The eagle has landed!
Arty Billboards with Sheep in front a a newly-contoured hillock
Rocky field with farm implement
The Enigmatic Pig Fence
Queenstown/Lake Wakatipu/Glenorchy
Lake Wakatipu on the road to Glenorchy
There were always a few things I wished I had made time to do on previous trips to Queenstown, and over Anzac Day weekend, I did them. The 45 minute drive to the top of the lake and the small town of Glenorchy is a famous scenic route. It did not disappoint. The town is tiny, but the air and water are fresh and clean, and there is a boardwalk path through the wetlands.
Anzac Monument
Glenorchy Wetlands boardwalk
The Black Swans of Glenorchy

Local  art: Another Haast Eagle sculpture

On any visit to Queenstown you will see the TSS Earnslaw lakeside, a 100 year old Twin Screw Steamer that invites visitors to  cross the lake to Walter Peak Station for a meal at one of the original sheep ranches in the area. We made sure to schedule a mid-day voyage. The water was calm, the BBQ lunch very good, and the old ship a working museum.

Porthole view of Queenstown
A view down into the coal-powered engine
Wherever I go I always try to find time for the gym. My friends at Snap Fitness Queenstown posted this friendly hygiene reminder.


Dunedin Environs/Otago Peninsula
We have been many times south to Dunedin,New Zealand's 5th largest city and home to its first university. On the last two visits, I have made time to explore and "tick some more boxes". On Greek Easter, I drove by one of the two Orthodox Churches, both St. Michael the Archangel, one Coptic and the other Antiochian. Neither were busy. I guess I should have come at Saturday midnight.
St. Michael's, the Antiochian one.
There are plenty of short tramps on the Otago Peninsula with enticing names ("Lovers Leap") and not-so-much ("Sandfly Bay").
On the walk to Lovers Leap
Sunbathing sea lion at Sandfly Bay
Another place I was intrigued by is Tunnel Beach in the south edge of town where you will find a tunnel hand-carved through sandstone in the 1870's for access to the rock formations, cliffs, and arches. I went at high tide, so not much beach to see.


The Tunnel
No beach, high tide
 
We took in the defending Super-Rugby Champion Highlanders game against traditional rivals the Crusaders from Christchurch at their comfortable covered home Forsyth Barr Stadium. The home team won.
The local Highlanders score a try!!
 There are two "must do" tours in Dunedin:
  1. Cadbury Chocolate Factory, and
  2. Speight's Brewery 
We had done the first before, now for the second.
The open pub at the end was the best part
Near the iconic train station is an authentic Chinese Garden, where you can reflect on life and sip tea with dumplings.

Next door to that is the ToitÅ«-Otago Settlers Museum, housing historical artifacts from all the peoples of the region, like this traditional Maori kite, or manu tukutuku.  
Manu Tukutuku
Oamaru Steampunk NZ 2016
Just one hour south and 150 years in the past is our neighbor Oamaru with the neoclassical white sandstone buildings intact, a perfect place to pretend you are Jules Verne and a natural environment for Steampunk NZ.
St. Patrick's Basilica Exterior

and interior
On the Queen's Birthday holiday weekend June 2-6 (just a day off, with no real connection to the monarch's earthly debut) the town hosted Steampunk NZ 2016 Festival. The activities included an attempt to break the World's Record for the most Steampunks in One Place. They needed 185, but I haven't heard if they got it.

They also held the Splendid Teapot Racing World Championship, wherein they raced.....you guessed it, motorized teapots.
The event sold out, so I had to look through the door.




Sports and Culture

Warriors


Watching the NBA Playoffs from NZ has been interesting. The New Zealand press always refers to “Steven Adams’ Oklahoma City Thunder”, as if Durant and Westbrook are his wingmen. As much as US sports fans have seen replays of Draymond’s kick to Steve’s “kiwis” was played on a seemingly endless loop here. That immediately made Golden State the enemy of this nation. Steven played tremendously well and was engaging throughout. I would love to have him on my team. He is about to become the highest paid Kiwi athlete of all time.
I have no defense for the kick, although for those to say that Mr. Green should have been suspended I will point out it was better for the Thunder that he didn’t. Draymond’s terrible play after the kick in Game 3 and all of Game 4 was a large reason the GSWs were blown out, and why many (me included) felt they had little chance to come back from 3-1 down. But come back they did, and as a fan, I could not be more proud. To those who say the Thunder was the better team and the Warriors only won because of lucky 3-point shots, I say rubbish! They one because they did what they had to do in the last quarters of three consecutive games and OKC did not. 73 wins is not luck or a fluke.
Many people seem reluctant to give the Warriors the credit they deserve, but other teams “misunderestimate” them (a Bush2ism) at their peril. The Finals are still in play, and if Cleveland wins I will feel happy for the long-suffering fans, but I am hoping for another championship banner.

GOT (Game of Thrones)

I am a dedicated Pub Quiz player and both pride myself and am a bit ashamed to stay abreast of popular culture. Our quartet, Team Leon, has built a bit of a reputation around town and at the Sail and Anchor Pub, but no one of a certain age should feel good about being familiar of the work of Fifth Harmony, or their latest hit Work From Home ft. Ty Dolla $ign. The sacrifices I make for art! 
In this spirit, I feel obliged to have a passing knowledge with GOT. It is all over the Internets and is reviewed weekly on line and on TV. I am about through Season 1 of 6, and I have a few observations. I am not sure why it seems to be so popular. Yes, it has high production values, fine actors, and regularly features beautiful naked people, largely of the XX variety.
But:

  • The story is incomprehensible without reading a detailed synopsis (or the books, I suppose).
  • They English accents sound refined, but add to the confusion without subtitles.
  • The frequent violence is remarkably graphic, enough so that when real people see other real people get dismembered or decapitated it is usually enough to emotionally scar them for life.
  • Almost no one is worth rooting for or caring about.
  • Not to mention sexism, classism, dwarf bigotry, etc.
I am not offended by it, just puzzled as to the popularity. I can't see myself committing the time to watch 6+ seasons, but I will probably check out the synopses for the sake of the team.


A Final Shoutout...
to Buz Graham, a friend since 1973. Buz has started a blog of his trip to southern India and Laos, in part inspired by me, as I was inspired by my niece Laura Fayne. Nice work Buz!
Here is a link to the first entry if you would like to check it out:

Mamba Out (mike drop sound)