Destination: Sicily
Warning!: This is a very long blog post. It may not be suitable for all readers. I go on at length about my November trip to Sicily. Some topics may seem tiresomely repetitive. There is a lot about Arab-Norman churches and mosaics, ancient temples and ruins, and senseless wars and destruction. In my defense, I have tried to be succinct and provide ample links for those who want to know more. Although various topics may have a common thread, each is worthy, interesting, and unique, at least in my eyes, although my words and photos may not adequately demonstrate that.
Viewer's discretion is advised.
We left off in Part II aboard
MS La Superba ferry en route from Genoa to Palermo, Sicily. The seas were calm, the ship was not crowded, our cabin was nicely appointed, and we had 12 more hours to enjoy it than I expected (due to a significant miscalculation on my part as mentioned on the previous posting). This gave me time to relax and reflect on the hectic pace we had been keeping and reformulate the next 12+ days left on our trip. I decided spend extra time in Sicily and fly back to Rome, omitting some stops of interest on the Southern Italian peninsula. It was the right choice. The plan now was to spend three nights in Palermo then rent a car and drive counterclockwise aound the island, ending up in Syracuse.
 |
| Our path: Palermo & Cefalu, Monreale, Segesta, Erice, Mozia, Selinunte, Agrigento, Piazza Armerina, Taormina, Siracusa |
Why
Sicily?
- We had never been there.
- Friends had visited and spoke very highly of it.
- The more I learned about the history and culture, the more I was intrigued.
- The food is reportedly delicious (so true!).
- It features prominently in the history, myths, and culture of ancient Greece, land of my paternal heritage.
I won't bore you with an incomplete retelling of the history, but there are several crucial points to understand. The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily is a literal crossroad between Europe, Africa, and Asia, and it has been inhabited and influenced by all of them. The triangular shape is reflected in the flag and in one of its ancient Greek names,
Trinacria, and also created three natural "sides" to the island.
 |
| Flag of Sicily (Myriam Thyes / Klone123) |
The Southeast became part of Greater Greece (
Magna Graecia), the West dominated by the Phoenicians/Carthaginians from Africa, and the Northeast more ancient native peoples (i.e.Sicels), Etruscans, and later Romans. At various times the island has been controlled by Arabs, Normans, Iberians, Germans, and Bourbons. It is only the last 150 years that Sicilians have begun to consider themselves Italians, and vice versa.
 |
| Look here for a description of Sicilian ethnology |
As a result, there is a unique blending and borrowing from the best of all of these peoples and cultures, in architecture, food, and art. Throw in that it is an island in the Southern Mediterranean, and you can see why my interest was piqued.
Palermo
The Sicilian capital and largest city, I didn't know what to expect and was a bit fearful, as my concept of Palermo was shaped by tales of Mafiosi, corruption, and crime. It didn't help that we arrived after dark, and getting to the hotel from the dock was much harder and more confusing than it should have been. We left town with a much different image. The
Alma Hotel was warm and welcoming with a very accommodating staff and a delicious breakfast included. They directed us to their favorite restaurant,
Locale Palermo. Wow! I'll have one of everything,
per favore.
We experienced a vibrant urban center with a distinct hipster vibe, somewhere I could imagine hanging out for 6-12 months. The city has been designated the 2018 Cultural Capital of Italy, and they have embraced the title. The Italian government has invested in restoration and maintenance of its UNESCO heritage sites and sponsored an ambitious schedule of exhibits and entertainment. Our first day was bright and sunny, a great day for exploring on foot.
The first landmark we passed was the massive opera house, the 120
year-old Teatro Massimo, largest in Italy and 3rd largest in Europe.
Further along is the heart of the old city the
Quattro Canti, a corner with set four 17th century Baroque symmetrical buildings demarcating the four quarters. In prior times, it is said the neighborhoods were so distinct that intermarriage was unusual.
 |
| Two of the four Quattro Canti buildings |
Adjacent to this is the Piazza Pretoria aka: Piazza Della Virgogna (Plaza of Shame), so-named because of scandalous nude statuary in the 16thC fountain.
The Fountain of Pretoria has many other amusing features, such as the circle of animal-headed water spouts. A cluster of other major sites are on the square, particularly
La Martorana Church. A little further history is in order.
The Normans ruled here for a brief period (1038-1198) but had a huge impact, a fact of which I was previously unaware. In the same era that William the Conqueror invaded England (1066), his relatives were vanquishing southern Italy and Sicily. Particularly impactful was the enlightened reign of
Roger II (1130-1154). Instead of slaughtering or displacing the defeated Arabs and Eastern Orthodox, he allowed then to continue their traditional ways and religions. He also used their combined talents in four remaining medieval masterpieces: La Martorana, the Palatine Chapel, Cefalù, and Monreale. Each one distinct (but hard to make clear with my photos here), they employed the greatest Byzantine, Islamic, and Western European artisans and concepts to make these churches unlike anything you can see elsewhere.
You can see
La Marorama and
San Cataldo churches side by side. The former was returned to the Eastern Orthodox church in the 20th century and is famous for the glittering Byzantine mosaics
, while the latter's
three red domes and internal spaces examples of Arab-Norman fusion.
 |
| La Martorana dome |
 |
| Roger II crowned by Jesus |
The Sicilian Baroque and Rococo interior of neighbor Santa Caterina Church is quite a contrast.
The massive Palermo Cathedral dwarfs its surroundings. A visit inside also is a reminder of the recent and on-going struggle against the Mafia, which regained strength after helping the Allies in WWII. Many brave Sicilians have been killed trying to combat evil. Father Pino Puglisi was one, murdered on his 56th birthday in 1993 and is memorialized inside.
In fact, within weeks of returning home,
the news reported the arrest of a major Sicilian mob boss, so our sense of a changed Palermo was in part the result superficial impression after a pleasant three-day stay.
Back on the tourist trail, perhaps the most perfect, jewel-like product of Norman Sicily is the
Palatine Chapel in the Royal Palace, commissioned by Roger II. It is perfectly preserved, unlike
La Martorana in which some of the original mosaics have been replaced by newer "improvements". The art is used to teach Biblical lessons to the illiterate, much like stained-glass windows in French cathedrals. You can see Noah loading the Ark below.
 |
| The detail of the ceiling shows honey-combing and geometric patterns of Arab influence |
Palermo was a wealthy city for many centuries, which is why you can find fine examples of the style of the day from Medieval through Neoclassical. A sterling example of a Baroque interior is the
Oratorio del Rosario di San Dominico. There is a famous Madonna painting over the altar by van Dyck and eye-catching stucco designs throughout, with chubby frolicking cherubs, statues of beautiful women representing virtues, and a splayed-open Satan being cast out of heaven.
 |
| Satan ejected |
 |
| Cherubs tugging at willies |
It is worth seeking out the
Galleria Regionale Sicilian in the old Arab quarter the Kalsa if for no other reason than to see 15th century fresco entitled
The Triumph of Death. Originally in a local hospital (!), a skeletal archer astride a cadaverous steed slays the unsuspecting populous. Have a nice day!
On a lighter and more modern note, we were intrigued by posters advertising "
Modigliani-Les Femmes". We bit. The exhibit featured digital recreations of famous works (no originals) and a narrative of his loves and muses. His most frequently used model was a young beautiful artist
Jeanne Hébuterne. They met when she was 19, had a child, and she tragically committed suicide while pregnant with another at age 21 three days after his death from TB.
 |
| Jeanne Hébuterne |
The final curtained room contained several nudes from
Amedeo Modigliani's only solo show, in Paris in 1917. The seven nudes were commissioned by his art dealer with an eye to "commercial appeal". It caused public outrage and was closed by police, at least until the erotic paintings were removed from the gallery window. A company called Project ARM (
Augmented Reality Museum) produced this traveling show. There was also a station where with a special 3D headpiece and could "look around" other famous works of art (i.e.-the Mona Lisa, The Birth of Venus)- very strange. I'm not sure the art world has been crying out for this. Ultimately it felt like the purpose was to show off their new technology and see some "high-class" erotica, too.
 |
| Nu couché realized 170 million dollars at a Christie's, New York, sale November 2015 |
The small seaside town of Cefalù lies a one-hour train ride east of Palermo. It is named for the large rock "head" behind it.
 |
Cefalù approached by train
|
It is a very popular summer resort, but is uncrowded in the off-season.
My interest in visiting was to see another of
UNESCO's World Heritage Arab-Norman treasures, the Cathedral.
Roger II was rescued from a shipwreck here and vowed to build the church
he hoped would be his final resting place. As stated in the
Encyclopaedia Britannica states: "Despite his repeatedly expressed wish to rest in Cefalù, the king was
buried in the cathedral at Palermo, having created, in a Europe rent by
schism and exhausted by the Crusades, not just a kingdom but a political
and religious climate in which all races, creeds, and cultures were equally encouraged and equally favoured"
Cefalù was on my must-see list specifically because of raves like this, when an eminent British historian proclaimed the image of
Christ Pantocrator (Christ the All-Powerful):
"the greatest portrait of the Redeemer in all Christian art"-John Julius Norwich
You can judge for yourself.
Here is a You Tube link to J. J. Cooper's (aka 2nd Viscount Norwich) one-hour talk on Sicilian history for those interested.
Of course the walls are filled with shimmering golden angels, saints, Mary, and other fine details.
Driving in Italy
The best way to see as much of the rest of the island is in a car so we spent the next
nine days
on the road. If you find yourself in a similar situation, perhaps our experiences can help.
When we first arrived in Rome we received a distressing email from friends Christine and Doug. They had a wonderful time in Sicily, but were shocked and dismayed to be charged over $500 for invisible driving violations one year ago. They learned there is a thing called the ZTL (
Zona Traffico Limitato), restricted areas in the centers of cities and towns under video surveillance. In typical Italian "efficiency" the fines work their way through the government to the rental car agency to eventually after
months or years appear on your credit card bill. This applies to locals and tourists and is not new, but virtually no guide book or rental car agency will mention this.
This links to another blog explaining this, and in an Appendix at the end of this posting I have copied Doug's letter of indignant outrage to Italy.
Forewarned is forearmed, and so we were very vigilant about not getting caught in this trap. Short of just not driving in any older town center, I think it is impossible. Here is an example of a sign in Ortygia, Syracuse.
 |
| Good luck spotting this while dodging traffic & pedestrians |
 |
| Little sign, big fine. |
It would be impossible to see and interpret while driving. Also, every town has different rules: in some the ban is all the time, in others just certain hours, and yet others in the high season only. When you ask specifically at car rental agencies, hotels, or gas stations, you get few specifics but are reassured "it is really not a problem". We may not know if we successfully avoided the ZTL's for up to
three years(!!), so BEWARE.
One other hassle we encountered: It generally took us 1.5 to 2 times longer to get somewhere than predicted. We always seemed to be making good time until almost at our destination, when the road would be blocked unexpectedly. Our GPS (multiple, actually) would insist we drive across the closed bridge or flooded road, so we would have to exit and then wing it until hopefully the computer recalculated. This was a daily occurrence. Oh, and also the tire inflation warning light went on but we were told to ignore it.
Monreale
After the usual dicking around at Europcar Palermo we took off in our sweet upgraded Fiat 500L Diesel. Our first destination was the last stop on the UNESCO Arab-Norman tour, the town and cathedral at Monreale.
The six mile route took about one hour to get to the largest of the Arab-Norman monuments. Legend states that Roger II's grandson William II fell asleep under a carob tree when the Holy Mother visited him and suggested he build a grand church there. Not one to disobey Mom, that is exactly what he did.
Once again the result is a beautiful amalgam of Arab, Byzantine, and Norman influences.
 |
| Christ Pantocrator of Monreale, subtly different than Cefalù |
You can gaze around to find your favorite Old and New Testament stories portrayed.
 |
| Mary & Friends |
 |
| The inverted crucifixion of St. Peter |
 |
| Cain & Abel |
William II also probably appreciated the cooler hillside location looking down to Palermo and the sea. He decided to have his father and himself entombed there.
 |
| William I's sarcophagus |
 |
| William II's sarcophagus |
Western Sicily: Segesta, Erice, and almost Motya
After Monreale we continued westward to the abandoned city of
Segesta, worth visiting for perhaps the most intact Doric temple from antiquity and a still-functional theater.
The site holds many mysteries although there are
tantalizing historical clues. Despite the Greek temple and theater, they were not Greeks but Elymians, a shadowy people who claimed to have come from Troy. They used the Greek alphabet but had their own lost language. No one knows to whom the temple was dedicated or why it was never finished. One theory has that it was begun as a ruse to convince the Athenians they were rich and a formidable ally against Syracuse, and once they got an alliance they abandoned the project.
Greek historians describe them are devious double-dealers, and they did successfully pit Carthaginians against various Greek city states, eventually having the rival Selinunte destroyed in 409BC (more on that later). Their luck ran out in in 307 BC when Syracuse captured the city and slew 10,000 people (Sicilian history is full of this kind on barbaric act.)
We proceeded on to
Erice, a medieval hilltop fortress with a history and legend going back to the birth of Aphrodite and the labors of Hercules and with a commanding view of Western Sicily and the Mediterranean. Knowing it was atop a steep hill I wanted to get in before dark, but couldn't beat the 5 PM sunset after having to backtrack on a closed road. Several factors conspired to make our arrival very unpleasant and a low point of our trip.
 |
| Pathway up to Erice |
Instead of a charming tourist paradise we found a deserted dark closed-up off-season village. Not willing to risk driving onto the town center (see ZTL zones above), we parked outside the city walls and dragged our belongings up the steep cobbled streets. We luckily stumbled into the ironically named Hotel Moderno. As the only guests, we were greeted warmly enough but the restaurant was closed, so we wandered on to find what seemed to be the only place open to eat, the Restaurante-Bar Nuovo Edelweiss.
We had recovered sufficiently from the trauma to recognize we might be having our most memorable meal in Italy, and not primarily because of the food. Seated in the upstairs dining room, we enjoyed a hearty Sicilian meal. The only other patrons were sizable group of men, clearly well-known locally, discussing "business" and feasting on a multi-course traditional meal (
Aperitivo, Antipasto, Primo, Secondo e contorno, Insalata, Formaggi e frutta, Dolce, & Digestivo con caffè), interrupted on occasion by calls from wives and girlfriends.
I surreptitiously snapped this photo of our abundant dessert tray with the gentlemen in the background. We felt we were in a scene from
The Godfather.
The next morning it rained on and off, but I was still able to explore a bit.
 |
| View from our veranda |
 |
| Erice Duomo |
 |
| Erice panorama |
We survived Erice with some positive and negative memories and headed out into the intermittently poring rain. Very near-by is a large lagoon (
Stagnone) notable for two things; the island of Motya and the salt-harvesting flats. Motya (aka: Mozia, Mothia, or San Pantaleo) was the site of the largest Carthaginian city in Sicily until it was destroyed by Syracuse in the
Siege of Motya (397 BC), an extraordinary struggle won after the Greeks debuted catapults and dragged their ships over land. The city was never rebuilt.
Jump ahead 1500 years to the 20th century. English-Sicilian Marsala wine impresario Joseph Whitaker bought the island and began amateur but skilled archaeologic digs which exposed the foundations of the city and many artifacts. Mr. Whitaker established a foundation and museum to carry on his work, and in 1979 they made the most amazing discovery. Excavations revealed a nearly intact ancient Greek statue possibly dumped in a ditch as a barrier during the Siege. The statue is described as such by the Whitaker Foundation:
The jewel in the crown of the museum is without doubt an extremely rare
2,500 year-old classical Greek statue named the Motya Charioteer. The
masterpiece was described by none other than Judith Swaddling, curator
of the British Museum as ‘the most tantalising sculpture in the entire
world’ and it has even moved some visitors literally to tears by its
beauty.
These photos sent to me by the museum provide justification for the praise.
But I didn't get to see it. There were heavy rains in the morning and apparently the ferry across the lagoon decided to close up shop for the day.
 |
| Closed ferry terminal with Motya across the water. |
I did get to see the
salt pans used since ancient times to harvest salt. You can see the windmills for pumping water and white hills of salt above and below.
Continuing around the southwest shore the next spot of interest was Selinunte, another Greek city destroyed in conflict, this time by its rival Segesta in league with Carthage, as I mentioned above. 10,000 troops conquered the Selinunte in nine days in 409 BC, butchering tens of thousands and enslaving the rest, especially brutal even for those times. The site is now the largest archaeologic park in Europe.
 |
| Il Vigneto |
It is always somewhat of a crap shoot when you book places you have
never been before, but by trying to carefully read between the lines
things generally worked out well. Our stay at the Il Vigneto Resort was a
very positive one.
We had a gourmet dinner and in the morning one of the best buffets ever. OMG!
As they say, a picture is worth 1,000 calories.
Well nourished, we set about exploring the ruins of the ancient great city, spread across two rises separated by a small river. Only one of the temples has been reconstructed, Temple E probably dedicated to
Hera. Across the ravine you can see the Acropolis in the distance.
 |
| Through Temple E to Acropolis |
 |
| Temple E |
 |
| Temple E |
 |
| Typical info panel on site |
 |
| Selinunte acropolis |
The park has a modest but well done museum, Museo Baglio Florio, a place to take refuge from the midday sun, where an eccentric but entertaining multimedia presentation is shown. It is hard to explain. Without spoken dialogue it tells the myth of
Europa, a woman from Crete abducted by Zeus in the guise of a bull, inspired by images sculpted into the nearby temples.
 |
| Click here to see the presentation in all its psychedelic glory |
Valle dei Templi in Agrigento
Moving along the southern coast the next major spot of interest is Agrigento, where again you can visit the remains of a once glorious and rich Greek city ruined by hostile neighbors. Just on the outskirts of the present town overlooking the sea is the misnamed
Valley of the Temples, which is on a ridge not in a valley. The PR people did a good job with the evocative rebranding.
Of the seven main temples in various states of disrepair, the undoubted star is the
Temple of Concordia (above), which rivals the Parthenon as the world's best-preserved Doric temple. The
Hotel Villa Athena was our poshest stay of the trip by far, and well worth it. The only accommodation located on site, we were able to view the temples in the evening at dinner....
 |
| Temple of Concordia lit at night |
or from our room at daybreak.
 |
| Sunrise seen through the Temple of Hera |
 |
| Temple of Heracles (6th C. BC) |
|
|
|
The Villa Athena did make one odd design choice: the internal bathroom walls and doors were all glass, not the best for privacy and a potential hazard for those wandering aound half-blind at night (
moi). I was careful not to have a major plate-glass injury.
The largest temple ever built in the Greek world was the
Temple of Olympian Zeus, now lying in ruins due to war, earthquakes, and cannibalization of stone to the construct the port and city. Only the massive footprint (370 ft. x 185 ft.) and a few scattered pieces remain.
 |
| The Temple site |
Inspection of a model at the museum shows what a wonder it was, with a ring of naked male giants (
telemones) "supporting" the roof.
 |
| Model of the Temple of Olympian Zeus |
 |
| Real Telemon next to model |
 |
| Telemon in situ |
Another museum treasure is this statue of a young man found near the sanctuary of Demeter.
 |
| Kouros c. 480 BC |
On a zoological note, we were introduced to a rare and endangered endemic species of goat, the
Girgentana, with characteristic twisted spiral horns.
Piazza Armerina/Villa Romana del Casale
That afternoon's drive took us into central Sicily, through fertile farmland and small towns to Piazza Armerina. I had booked us into a recommended bed and breakfast, Villa Clementine. Our arrival surprised our hostess Clementine herself until we discovered I had made another embarrassing error. I had reserved the room for the following week. She was quite gracious in sorting this out so no harm was done or deposit lost. Sharing the place with a small group of Latvian exchange students, we were all welcomed into the large family home and treated to generous plates of home-cooked meals. The reason people now come to Piazza Armerina is to visit a rediscovered Roman villa south of town and its magnificent mosaics.
 |
| Clementine and me |
A secluded hunting lodge built around 400 AD for a high-ranking Roman official, perhaps even co-Emperor
Maximian,
Villa Romana del Casale (Roman Farmhouse Villa) was buried by a landslide in the 14th C AD and largely forgotten. Careful excavations over the last century have revealed an unparalleled expanse of floor mosaics, 38,000 sq.ft. in all. These few photos will not do them justice, but in the 200' long Great Hall all kinds of animals from all over the known world are depicted being hunted, captured, and transported to Rome.
In other rooms, the North African mosaicists tell mythical tales of Hercules and Odysseus, nurseries show children hunting small animals and playing with toys, and others feature geometrical designs and flora and fauna.
A room dubbed the Chamber of the Erotic Scene reveals (
gasp!) a couple kissing and a bare bottom. The Chamber of the Ten Maidens, aka the Bikini Mosaic, feature scantily clad young women athletically competing for a crown.
Taormina
With a reputation of perhaps too touristy and too expensive, I almost passed on Taormina, but am so glad I didn't. It was a perfect time to visit: off-season prices, beautiful weather, and stunning views.
Climbing to the top of the 2,300 year-old theater was worth the spectacular views of the town with a backdrop of a smoking Mt. Etna. (We were quite fortunate to miss two Sicilian disasters that sandwiched our visit.
9 people died in flash flooding east of Palermo just prior to our visit, and
Mt. Etna erupted just before Christmas.)
 |
| and sunset. |
 |
| Piazza del Duoma and Fountain |
 |
| Piazza IX Aprile and San Giuseppe Church |
 |
| Actor filming on the stage of the Greek Theater |
 |
| Restaurant Il Ciclope (Cyclops) |
Siracusa
Last stop on our tour of Sicily was Syracuse (
Siracusa) for three nights. It was one of the grandest cities in all of Greater Greece. Many of the most famous scientists, philosophers, poets, and playwrights of the Classical Greek period lived there, foremost among them inventor/mathematician/physicist/astronomer
Archimedes. Its long and storied history follows the Sicilian pattern of wars, alliances, triumphs, despots, victories, and eventual defeat and decline, but there still is plenty of evidence left of the glory days.
We chose to stay in the
Grand Hotel Villa Politi (1862). Initially a private villa of an Austrian noblewoman and her local painter husband, it is now one of those classic hostelries with "old world charm". The GHVP in the past hosted many notables including Winston Churchill (His quote, "I never slept so well in my life"). We had the corner room on the second floor just above the tree in the middle of the photo, with two verandas.
 |
| Two verandas, no waiting. |
The lobby reflected its fading grandeur.
The hotel is perched over the gaping quarry
Latomia dei Cappuccini. It took me the three days to figure out this quarry (
latomiae) thing. They are all over town because the ancient city was built of limestone taken from these. For every edifice erected another hole was dug so that they are now part of the fabric of the city.
 |
| Now the gardens of the Capuchin friars |
They are labyrinthine and multi-use. The one adjacent to the hotel was used as a prison for thousands of Athenians captured in 413 BC after their failed attempt to take the city, and now it is a garden. In the Archeological Park there is Latomia di Paradiso where you will find Orecchio di Dionisio (Ear of Dionysius). Favorable acoustics led the titular tyrant to put political prisoners here so he could eavesdrop on them. Next door is the Grotta del Cordari (Rope-makers' Cave), with the perfect temperature and humidity for making rope, crucial to a seafaring sate.
 |
| Mouth of the Ear |
 |
| Inside the Orecchio |
Below is a 19th C. watercolor of St. Paul preaching in the Cave.
Stone excavated from here went to building the adjacent Greek Theater...
..and the Roman amphitheater for gladiatorial contests.
The heart of the ancient town is Ortygia, an island inside a larger bay. This strategic position was a large reason Siracusa was able to avoid invasion and destruction much longer than its Sicilian neighbors until eventually it fell to the Romans. At the center of Ortygia is the Cathedral and its piazza.
 |
| Cathedral (Duomo) |
 |
| Piazza del Duoma as seen from the steps of Il Duomo |
The original 5th c. BC Temple of Athena was converted into the church in 640 AD thus preserving the original columns in place. Many ancient temples survived due to adaptation to more modern religions, like Christianity or Islam or sometimes both at different times.
 |
| Greek Doric columns embedded in the Duomo walls |
A side chapel is dedicated to the patron saint of Syracuse,
Santa Lucia, or St. Lucy. She is said to have had her eyes removed in her martyrdom, so she is also the patron saint of the blind. If you would like her help with a vision problem, some nice golden ocular gifts may do the trick.
Another hybrid treasure is a Greek marble font resting on Norman bronze lions, seen in front of the medieval
Cosmatesque inlaid marble panels on the wall.
Walking around Ortygia is a pleasure even through a constant drizzle.
 |
| Via della Giudecca in the old Jewish quarter |
 |
| Along the seafront |
 |
| Remains of the Temple of Apollo |
 |
| Piazza Archimede fountain |
We encountered puppet museums throughout Sicily, where they take
Opera dei Pupi quite seriously dating back to the Greco-Roman era.
 |
| We missed Pupi-fest 2018 |
Elaborately carved and garbed marionettes tell medieval tales of Norman chivalry,
knights errant, and local history.
 |
| Pupi for sale in Taormina |
You can walk all the way to the south end or Ortygia to the Castello Maniace overlooking Porto Grande.
Modern Syracuse is not as exceptional. The dominant landmark around town is the S
antuario della Madonnina delle Lacrime (the Sanctuary of the Crying Little Madonna). In 1953 a small factory-made statue of the Virgin Mary surprisingly began to weep for three days. Hundreds of miracles ensued, and enough so funds were raised to erect this home for the statue. Allegedly shaped like a tear, the
Cadogan Guide: Sicily more aptly describes it as a "251 foot concrete shuttlecock".
Directly across the street is
Regional Archaeologic Museum, a fitting wrap-up to our stay in Syracuse and Sicily. Here are a few items that caught my eye.
 |
| A miniature wax scene of plague victims |
 |
| Skeletons of pygmy elephants that roamed Sicily until shortly after humans arrived |
 |
| Head of Asklepios, God of healing |
 |
| Statue of Priapus, minus a key appendage |
 |
| A hoard of 79 silver coins with a lead marspium (pouch) |
 |
| Venus Pudica ("Modest Venus") so-called because of strategically-place hand |
Thus ends my extended tome. Congratulations if you made it to the end and thanks for reading. I leave you with a Syracusan Santa hanging on a balcony, and wishes for the best 2019! (And the appendix below.)
Appendix:
Doug Nunn's letter to the Italian Embassy
Embassy
of Italy
3000
Whitehaven St. NW
Washington,
DC 20008
Dear
Italian Ambassador and Government of Italy,
Greetings
from Doug Nunn and family, American citizens and friends of Italy. I write
because last year we had the good fortune to visit Rome and Siracusa, Sicily
and had a wonderful time. Unfortunately one year later(i.e a week ago) we
received 4 traffic citations in the post, which were completely unexpected and
seemingly extortionist. Ostensibly we had “driven within limited traffic zones
without authorization”. Considering there were no visible signs, no warnings,
and no traffic police coaching us as to our supposed infractions, I couldn’t
help but wonder what was going on. My wife and I spent some time researching
these supposed infractions on line. What we found was disconcerting at best,
and even worse downright fraudulent.
On
the internet we found hundreds of US citizens complaining that they had
experienced the same complaint—they had rented cars in Italy, no known
infractions had been forthcoming, nothing had seemed amiss, and then almost one
year after they had returned home, they received notice of multiple traffic
infractions in the mail. And oddly the infractions were always for mulitiple
hundreds of Euros/dollars. To each and every person who complained on line(and
there were HUNDREDS!) these sudden “notices of payments” were unexpected and
seemed extortionist. Like all these people complaining on line, I remember
nothing that I did that merited any punishment.
It
seems odd that the land of Da Vinci and Michaelangelo suddenly transformed into
the land of Godfather Vito Corleone for the purpose of extorting money from
good-natured tourists who thought they were following traffic rules. It also
seems odd that a few days before a full year later, I received the
citations(like so many others who testified online). If we had violated Italian
traffic laws so flagrantly, why not notify us within a month or two of the
infraction? If our mistakes were so egregious, why not make sure we had a
complete explanation? At this point the only conclusion I have arrived at is
never rent a car in Italy again, and secondly why bother going in the first
place, if I will just receive hundreds of Euros worth of traffic fines one year
later?
I
wish Italy well. I am not going to let your traffic extortion system ruin my
opinion of the land that brought us Roman law and the Italian Renaissance. But
I will make a point of telling people about this experience and warn them not
to rent a car in your country unless they can spare $500 for unexpected traffic
tickets one year later.
Sincerely,
Doug
Nunn
PO
Box 1353, Mendocino, CA 95460
