Back in the USA (for a while) or; The Meat in a Covid Sandwich

Believe me, I really didn't want to write about the virus again. I feel like Peter Sagal from NPR's news quiz show Wait Wait ...Don't Tell Me! who from 2015-2021, began every episode apologizing for yet another Trump-related question. But, darn it, the Pandemic has shaped everything in the world for this period of our lives: every country, age and ethnic group, politician, and society. It is the reason we were away from home for 16 months. When we did return, it was during the illusion of return to normalcy, with vaccinations taking hold and a better understanding of how to handle the cases medically. But right now thanks to the delta variant, cases and hospitalizations are rising and we just were released from a two week mandatory Managed Isolation and Quarantine and New Zealand is in its first national lockdown since March, 2020. So this long blog post, in addition to chronicling our journey since the last entry, will include some reflections on the pandemic, as well as thoughts on race and history. 

I don't mean to shortchange the catastrophic global threat of climate change, which seems to be all around us (fires, floods, record heat and cold, etc.). Mother Earth is apparently exacting revenge at a more rapid pace than predicted (like the Taliban seizing Afghanistan), but as someone who has enjoyed travel far and wide and the benefits of liberal energy use throughout my life, I don't feel I have any deeply insightful comments to add.

(Note: As this is a lengthy blog, I have divided it into two parts so the reader can take a break after Georgia if desired  and resume later.)

Part I

Preparing to return home

Looking back to May, 2021, we were busy trying to tidy up things for our most prolonged and open-ended USA trip since 2014. I was clearly in a transitional period, having resigned my permanent contract in Timaru with a plan to do temporary locums work on my return. Swapping a secure position for more flexibility, it was difficult to explain to people that I was not retiring and abandoning NZ and would definitely be back. You could say I kicked those difficult decisions down the road a bit. 

Before leaving we did host friends for Greek Easter, and were invited to a good-bye dinner for dear friends Genie and Ballard Pritchett. Genie retired after her 3+years as a sterling Gerontologist and they returned to Colorado. In fact they were on our flight back to the USA on May 20.

Appetizers for Greek Easter

L to R: Hosts Steve S. & Jane S, Ballard & Genie P., me, unidentified diner

Georgia and South Carolina

Our #1 priority on return was to spend time with daughter Sofia and family, especially our grandkids Kimarra and Isaiah. We flew in to Georgia June 17 and were delighted to be surprised with a cake Sofia had ordered to mark all of our missed shared celebrations including her 30th birthday in 2020. I am sure most readers have also sacrificed many traditional commemorations on the altar of Covid. Her June 20 birthday is also around Father's Day and I was presented with this lovely card and an extremely practical travel umbrella, ideal for dealing with the random deluges common in Georgian summers.

I had promised Sofia we could go on a little holiday of her choice so we spent two days in Savannah, about a 2.5 hour drive east from their house. Savannah is a unique township, with parks and squares and restored buildings and lots of foliage. Fayne and I had passed through early in the 1980's and it was well worth  second visit. If you do go (and I highly recommend it), check out the best-selling 1994 non-fiction novel by John Berendt, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. It is a great read and clues you into some of the "colorful" recent history.

One of my best memories of this trip is of the first night in Savannah. Sofia and Marquise went out in search of a romantic anniversary dinner, and we were left with the kids. I chose a near-by classic American diner Betty Bombers for burgers, fries, grilled cheese, and all the classics. We noted throughout our stay in the USA that although things had the appearance of normalcy, nothing truly was. Every business, restaurant, and hotel was understaffed with new and inexperienced employees. Waits for food were long and traditional services (maid service, daily linen and towels) were not provided. But we had a great time at the diner, and the long delay resulted in our table being rewarded with not two but three gigantic American-sized root-beer floats.

A recreation of our diner experience later in the Atlanta History Center

Even more fun than dinner was the walk back to our Air B&B through Forsyth Park. It was one of those perfect Southern nights, warm but not stifling, and everyone seemed to be out. There were strollers like us, inline skaters, dancers, singers, ball-players, all creating a festive and magical experience.

In front of the lovely (but problematic) Civil War Memorial. More on this further on in the blog.

 Forsyth Park Fountain (1858)

Present day Savannah owes its essence to three major factors: 

1. Founder of the colony of Georgia James Oglethorpe- In 1733 he established the town on a grid around 22 park-like squares, and he also opposed slavery.
2. The town escaped Atlanta's fate by not resisting General Sherman and thus avoided wide-spread destruction in the Civil War.
3. A very active local preservation and restoration effort since the 1970's.

James Oglethorpe Statue

Owens-Thomas House (1819)- One of the many preserved buildings. Lafayette slept here.

City Hall (1905) with its gold-leafed dome

The Riverfront

Sofia wanted to visit Old Fort Jackson (1808), one of 19th century forts used by the Confederacy to defend Savannah during the civil war. It was a warm and pretty day, and the kids were entertained by an enthusiastic rebel re-enactor. The highlight was firing the cannon at the tourists on the Georgia Queen riverboat.

 

 

 

 

After Savannah, the Heards headed back to their home in Kathleen GA and Fayne and I headed off on a three-day road trip. Whenever possible, I try to go to some previously unvisited places of interest. We were close enough to take a loop to include Charleston SC, Augusta GA, and Athens GA. Why? Because, in order:

1. Charleston is where the American Civil War started.
2. Augusta is home of The Masters, one of the most iconic golf courses and tournaments in the world.
3. Athens is the home of the University of Georgia, Georgia Bulldogs football, and a cradle of alt rock music.

The twin themes of Covid and racial strife were inescapable on our swing through Georgia and South Carolina. In central Georgia, we were pleased to see that a majority of people seemed to show respect for the virus, with many wearing masks and socially distancing appropriately. Also, we did not experience any much-reported hostility towards those that did. Things were different in South Carolina. Most of the staff at our hotel was black and they were careful to mask, but despite clear National Park Service signs saying masks were required for the ferry trip to Ft. Sumter, the vast majority did not.  We went to dinner at a very crowded restaurant were scores of unmasked and mostly unvaccinated young people crowded together. Although vaccinated we still were cautious and wore masks, tried to distance, and sat outside on the ferry and at dinner.

As any schoolchild should know, Fort Sumter was the place where the first shots of the Civil War were fired. Despite what I was taught in school, "States Rights" were not the cause of the war. On December 20,1860 South Carolinians voted to leave the Union because President-elect Lincoln's "opinions and purposes are hostile to slavery". In late 1860, an 85-man garrison moved into the unfinished fort on a man-made isle in the center of Charleston harbor. This was deemed by the Confederacy an act of aggression so on April 12, 1861 militia forces bombarded the fort from all sides. After 34 hours of constant shelling, the fort was in ruin and Yanks were forced to surrender. Miraculously, there no deaths on either side.

Fort Sumter in 2009, courtesy of Wikipedia

 

Display panel from the small museum there

The greeting sign as one disembarks

Charleston, founded in 1670, has a deep, dark, and fascinating history fundamentally linked to the institution of slavery. It was the largest port of entry for enslaved peoples to enter the USA, and very early on the number of blacks far outnumbered the whites by 10:1 or more. There developed many complex subsets of black culture: enslaved people including those allowed to ply trades after duties on the rice and indigo plantations were done, indentured servants, free blacks both domestic and those from the West Indies, and lighter-skinned people from slave-owner liaisons.

The hot and humid climate was especially challenging for the wealthy British land-owners. Yellow fever and malaria (only eradicated in the 1950's) were common. Being so outnumbered, the whites were constantly fearful of an uprising, and this resulted in severe and brutal measures at times.

One Civil War curiosity linked to Charleston is the CSS Hunley, the first submarine ever to sink an enemy ship in battle February 17,1864. To illustrate how dangerous early submarine warfare was,  this ship alone accounted for 22 Rebel deaths including the inventor Mr. Hunley after sinking twice in training and finally blowing up with its torpedo which sank the USS Housatonic. Only five Union lives were lost in the attack. The sub was located off-shore near the sunken enemy ship in 1995 and raised in 2000. It is still being restored.

A replica of the Hunley on display

After two nights in Charleston we headed off to Augusta, GA, home of Augusta National Golf Course. I was sincerely surprised to discover that unless you are lucky enough to get a magic ticket to visit during the week of the Master's Tournament or are one of ultra-exclusive 300 members, you cannot lay eyes on any part of the golf course, not even a glimpse driving by. There is no museum, no tours, no tower to overlook it, and no place even to buy merch. There is no obvious evidence of the tournament in town.What you will find is a pleasant shaded walk along the Savannah River and Canal.

It is also the hometown of the legendary James Brown. You can visit his statue in the center of town, his mural, and if time allows take a Brown Family led tour (not available the day of our visit).

The Godfather of Soul, Mr. James Brown, possibly life-size as the Internets say he was 5'5".

James and the river walk made Augusta worth the visit, but the town-center seemed impoverished with no connection to an exclusive and posh golf mecca.

Our stop that night was Athens, GA. It is a charming town with a lovely Berkeley-like campus, good food, and a relaxed vibe. The 92,746-seat Sanford Stadium home of the Georgia Bulldogs is famous for playing "between the hedges" that surround the gridiron.

Stadium with hedges

Racial bigotry is in no way unique to the Southeastern USA. If you are curious you can find examples in every state, probably in almost every community worldwide. It is commonplace for people to pre-judge others; the challenge is to recognize that in yourself especially when that prejudice is harmful, unfair, and/or hateful to others. In the South, stark examples may be closer to the surface therefore easier to recognize and learn from if you wish. 

For example, the University of Georgia is commemorating 60 years since the first two black students were admitted, Hamilton E. Holmes and Charlayne Hunter (now Hunter-Gault). 1961 was six years after the Supreme Court decided Brown v. the Board of Education and mandated all schools be desegregated "with all deliberate speed". Despite this, the state of Georgia still had a law to defund all desegregated schools. These two students were outstanding individuals that went on to great things in life: Hamilton Holmes became the first black medical student at Emery and chief of orthopedics at Grady Hospital, and Charlayne Hunter-Gault has been a journalist and correspondent for NPR, The New Yorker, the New York Times, and CNN among others. 

A few days after their court-mandated admission, a racist mob of 1,000 surrounded Ms. Hunter-Gault's dorm, chanted racial epitaphs, burned crosses, threw bottles and rocks through her window. What action did the university take? According to Wikipedia:

Immediately following the riot, the dean of students suspended Holmes and Hunter "in the interest of your personal safety and for the safety and welfare of more than 7,000 other students at the University of Georgia".

 The suspension was later overturned by a federal court.

A more recent example relates to the previously mentioned Civil War Memorial in the center of Forsyth Park in Savannah. It was originally built and dedicated in 1875 to honor Confederate soldiers who died in the Civil War, or the War of Northern Aggression as some in the South call it. A statue of an unknown rebel soldier is perched atop the column. After the deadly 2017 clashes in Charlottesville VA over the removal of Jim Crow-era Confederate statues, the city of Savannah renamed it the Civil War Memorial and rededicated it to all those who died in the war, South and North.  Savannah carefully studied the situation and passed a list of eight recommendations, including moving two busts of Confederate generals elsewhere. But on April 26, 2019, Governor Brian Kemp signed into effect Georgia SB77, which explicitly stated, "A monument shall not be relocated to a museum, cemetery, or mausoleum unless it was originally placed at such location." This effectively delayed the implementation of most of the task force's recommendations. 

And now, for something completely different....

On our way back to Sofia's place, we took a detour to visit a roadside oddity we learned of through a trivia question in a New Zealand newspaper. 

• Q. Where are the Georgia Guidestones?  A. 45 miles east of Athens GA.
• Q. What are the Georgia Guidestones? A. A granite monument erected in 1979 by a secretive group, inscribed with ten guidelines in 8 modern and 4 ancient languages.
• Q. Why are the Georgia Guidestones? A. Apparently, this is meant as advice for rebuilding civilization after a global catastrophic event. 
• Q. So what's the advice? A. 1) Maintain humanity under 500,000,000 in perpetual balance with nature.2) Guide reproduction wisely—improving fitness and diversity 3) Unite humanity with a living new language.4) Rule passion—faith—tradition—and all things with tempered reason.5) Protect people and nations with fair laws and just courts.6) Let all nations rule internally resolving external disputes in a world court.7) Avoid petty laws and useless officials.8) Balance personal rights with social duties.9) ndnd.10) Be not a cancer on the Earth—Leave room for nature—Leave room for nature.

 

Atlanta

After a few night's back at the Heards' we all headed to Atlanta before our trip back to California July 4th. It so happened that our dear friend (and maid of honor) Joyce from Oakland was there visiting her sister Judy. Joyce has known Sofia since she was a baby and both of them were delighted to reconnect. Her sister Judy (not pictured) graciously welcomed us into her home and spent some quality time with us all. Thank you Judy!

In Judy's back yard. Joyce is the 4th from the left.

Atlanta is a city full of attractions and Sofia suggested we go to two places none of us had been before. Both were large wooded areas in the heart of the city, the first one being the Atlanta Botanical Gardens. We spent hours ambling through the manicured grounds enjoying the flowers, artworks, and even some live music.

The Conservatory

The Canopy Walk

A unique highlight is the Earth Goddess plant sculpture. It is 20 feet tall with over 18,000 individual plants. It is worth a view from any angle.

 

 

On our last full day in Georgia Sofia suggested checking out the Atlanta History Center. Sprawled over 33 acres in the heart of the posh Buckhead area, there was plenty to see and do: part history museum, part historic houses and extensive gardens, and including a model rural Georgia farm complete with a petting zoo. Since 2019 a purpose-built space displays the monumental cyclorama, The Battle of Atlanta. Painted by 17 German artists and first displayed in Minneapolis in 1886 22 years after the 1864 battle, it was meant for northern audiences to marvel at the depiction of the engagement. The Battle was probably the true turning point in the war. Lincoln was running for re-election and it didn't look good. He needed a significant victory and General Sherman gave it to him as he conquered and burned Atlanta which led the rest of the Confederacy to fall like dominoes. 

42 feet high and circling around 358 feet, it was a spectacle, the IMAX of its time. Part art, part fiction, and part history, it was a huge commercial success. In 1891 after a five-year run in the north, it was purchased and brought to Atlanta for display. Knowing their audience, a few "minor" alterations were made. Soldiers' uniforms were repainted and the Union troops traded places with the Rebels and it was presented as a glorious win for the South. It has recently been restored as a Union victory, and museum panels detail the political and propaganda aspects of this work of art.

A section of the cyclorama

The museum also contained other exhibits dedicated to Atlantan topics like extensive Civil War memorabilia, legendary golfer (and co-founder of the Masters) Bobby Jones, and the 1996 Atlanta Olympics.

Bobby Jones in bronze

1996 Olympic mascot Izzy, AKA Whatizit

 Much of our time was spent leisurely walking through the gardens and the grand Swan House (1928).

 

Before flying back to California on July 4th I was able to visit with my cousin Leah Michele. Part of my mother's West Virginia family, she has lived and worked for the CDC in Atlanta many years.

In Leah's back yard

Part II

Fort Bragg/Mendocino

Glass Beach, Fort Bragg CA

 Our time in California was split between Mendocino County and the Bay Area, both before and after the Georgia excursion. We are so fortunate to have places to live in New Zealand, Richmond CA and Fort Bragg, but if there was ever any doubt this stay confirmed Fort Bragg is our capital H "Home". Our six weeks there was the most time in 7+ years. Having been absent since January 2020, we had a lot of business to attend to; general housekeeping, bathroom repair, yard maintenance, etc. I had enough time to cull through my closet and drawers to sort the items I no longer need, treasures I had forgotten I had, and unfortunately some cartoon-like moth damage.

A woolen vest, or...

a tasty meal for lepidoptera?

Despite how long we have lived here, the natural beauty still astounds.

View of Pudding Creek Beach from the trestle bridge

But far and away, the greatest treasure of this whole trip was reconnecting with dear friends and relatives after far too long a time.

Dinner with Doug N. in the garden of the Fog Eater Cafe, Haley's eatery in Mendocino

My former office staff reunited when Linnea M., Terry K., and I drove to Yuba City for a surprise visit with Judy V. What a great day for all of us!

Terry, Judy, me, Linnea

I was so grateful that Buz and Pam Graham invited us over to their wooded Mendocino home. We go way back, to Berkeley 1973, and Buz has been dealing with some significant health challenges lately, which he bravely blogs about. Part medical, part poetic, part spiritual and philosophical, and 100% Buz, here is the link to his blog if you are interested.

The Bay Area

Stays in Richmond before and after Georgia allowed us to spend time with friends and family from Santa Rosa to Watsonville to Davis. The Covid delta surge made me want to avoid crowds and prolonged time indoors, so I picked and chose carefully. No baseball games this year, despite both the A's and Giants doing better than expected. I did make a trip to Watsonville to celebrate Connie Winton's birthday with the Nestler clan. It was great to see them all again, especially their now 95 year-young matriarch Emma. I was also feted with a belated birthday cake.

PJ, Connie, and me

Proud Grandma Emma with new HS grad Hannah

I popped over to Davis for the day and got to catch up with all the Nishikawa clan. I was especially delighted to see David's 96 yo mom June.

 

I was not going to leave the States until after Athena's birthday. This was a relatively small affair. We joined Athena, Cheryl, Xania, and David at the family cabin in the Sierras. This was a rare summer-time visit for us as we usually only go up at Christmas, and it was pleasant  except for smoke from the massive Northern California fires. 

Birthday dinner on the back porch with Fayne's shoes

As a super special bonus, the day before our departure we were once again (previously in 2018) honored to be invited to dinner at her friend Mary Powell's to further honor Athena. Mary is a noted SF gourmand and Athena dictated the menu: fresh salmon and crab, luscious heirloom tomatoes, all sorts of delicious appetizers and sides, but the piece de resistance was a 10-layer Russian honey cake! Spectacular!!

Yum x 10⁶

 

At nearly the last minute I got to see Kate and Lars Larson over bagels and coffee in Corte Madera. They were up from Cayugas, CA and brought a very special item:The Arnold®. Long-time followers may recognize that as the statuette of Arnold Schwartzenegger awarded to the winner our now defunct annual Oscar® contest. Since they were they last victors, he has lived with them and perhaps haunted their house for years. They were determined he return to his Fort Bragg birthplace with us. 

Me, Kate, & Lars

Arnold, not The Arnold®

I apologize to any friends or family not specifically given a shout-out in the posting. For the sake of brevity (and lack of a good photo) many are omitted but you know who you are and how I cherish the time we spent together.

Sad Stuff

As I mentioned in my prior blog, I was not able to be around during my father's last days, but I did spend a day in San Diego trying to help his widow Ruth sort things out, and transport his ashes back north.

Also, shockingly my ex-brother-in-law Russell Kyle died suddenly of natural causes on June 6. My sincerest condolences go to niece Emily and Athena for their loss.  The family had a gathering in Golden Gate Park to remember Russell, including many of his family and friends from the city sports  and homeless worlds. Emily composed a lovely obituary which I copied below.

Two of his jerseys

Athena & Emily at the memorial celebration

Russell Kyle
Mar 4, 1953 - Jun 6, 2021
Russell Kyle was born in Los Angeles, CA. He passed away in SF of natural causes. He is survived by his daughter Emily Kyle, two sisters Diane Kyle Gors and Lori Kyle Fields, lifelong brother Mitchell Miller, and many friends he considered family.
Russ never met a stranger; everyone was a friend. A born entertainer, he made lasting impressions wherever he went. He would give you the shirt off his back. Russell was unpretentious and always had time for anyone.
Those who knew and loved him would say there was never a "No Trespassing" sign that could contain him. Always a truth-sayer and a button-pusher. Everyone says Russ had a mythic tale to tell and knew there were adventures to be had.
As a Renaissance man, he knew being human is hard. He faced every day with a bit of humor. More than anything Russ loved to laugh and bring everyone in on the joke.
Russ got the last laugh when he played his final softball game, scoring a run and helping his team win the game. All are better for having known him as his generosity, Irish wit, and character was unparalleled.

The Journey Back to NZ

We are now back in our house in Timaru after a stressful 16 day odyssey. It began days before our August 10th departure when were required to have a negative Covid PCR test within 72 hours of departure. We had to navigate delayed and potentially cancelled flights (and the removal of one unruly mask-resistant passenger) to be sure we get to LAX in time for our 10PM departure. It was on to Auckland where the entire planeload was transferred by buses to our mystery MIQ (managed Isolation and Quarantine) facility. Our destination was the most remote location, Rotorua. After a few days (for reasons I still do not comprehend having to do with my CPAP machine), we were transferred from the Ibis to the Sudima Hotel. It was a clear improvement for us as we went from a tiny room with small sealed windows to a larger one with a balcony and a view of Lake Rotorua. After some initial worries that our marriage was endangered, with the larger space and a view we settled into the routine and could walk regularly around the car park. Otherwise we were not allowed outside of the room and no one was allowed in, as it was assumed any of us in MIQ might have Covid.

On day five of our stay, New Zealand detected the first community case of the virus in six months which resulted in the first nationwide lockdown in a year. It was confirmed to be the highly contagious delta variant, and now the total is over 500 cases and counting. Unfortunately with a slower than ideal vaccine roll-out only one million out of five million have been fully vaccinated.After five negative swabs in 18 days, we were released Thursday August 26, but due to the current national lockdown most transportation is shut down. It took a very long day to take a bus to Auckland airport, an evening plane to Christchurch, and finally a hired car ride to Timaru.

Morning over Lake Rotorua

The government is trying very hard to once again stamp out community cases, but even if this succeeds it is like putting a finger in the dyke. The strategy needs to be vaccinate as many Kiwis as urgently as possible.

Since my title refers to a "Covid sandwich", allow me to close with a few observations on the distressing times we all are in.

• Global billionaires managed to increase their collective wealth by 27.5% during the four months April-July, 2020, to $10.2 trillion. 
• Life expectancy was 78.8 years in 2019, and was 77.3 years in 2020, the largest drop since World War II. COVID-19 contributed 74% to the decline in life expectancy. There were sharp racial and ethnic divides in the data. For Black Americans, life expectancy dropped 2.9 years from 74.7 years in 2019 to 71.8 in 2020. And Hispanic Americans had the biggest drop—3 years, with Hispanic males seeing a drop of 3.7 years. 
• It takes a monumental event to drastically reduce life expectancy, analogous to the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake and tsunami, so powerful it caused death and destruction as far away as Africa and caused the very planet to wobble on its axis.
• I cannot think of one truly famous person who has died from Covid, can you? I suspect that if that happened early on there would be less wide-spread denial of reality and increased vaccine acceptance. 
•  Lack of wealth is a major risk factor for Covid mortality. People with resources get diagnosed quicker, are monitored more carefully, and are more likely to receive expensive and difficult to administer therapies like monoclonal antibodies, which can help in high-risk patients to prevent hospitalization but don't help later.
• Stay safe, be kind, and heed the words of a granite monument: Prize truth—beauty—love—seeking harmony with the infinite