2021: Another Year, Another 20+ COVID Variants

So as the omicron variant arrives the Christmas present no one wanted, I will reflect on the last 3+ months back in New Zealand. Everyone is tired of dealing with the pandemic, yet here we are. Ever since we returned in August, the nation has been on high alert as Delta creeps in. Infections have not yet been documented in our community in 2021 although everyone knows it will appear soon. The time has allowed vaccination rates to near 90%, although it is a concern that the percentage is significantly lower in certain rural and minority populations. For over a year, the total deaths here was about 22, now it has doubled to 44. For some perspective, total deaths in the USA are over 800,000, or about 0.25% of the total population, versus 0.00088% in NZ. If you do the calculations, the per capita death rate in the USA is 285 times greater than in NZ.

It is what it is. Good luck to all, and do the reasonable things to protect yourself and others.

Since returning, mostly I've been working at Timaru Hospital, filling the spot vacated when I resigned my permanent contract July 1, 2021. I am sorting out how I really want to approach this transitional phase of my life vis a vis work/non-work. I thought I would be resuming my prior job but just get paid in a different way and have more freedom with my schedule. That is partly true, partly not. The work environment has changed in several ways, some subtle, some not, and continues to evolve (devolve?). I won't bore you with details, but locums work is not exactly the same as being on a permanent contract. I'm not sure, but for the next few years we will probably get closer to 50/50 split in time spent in NZ vs. the USA.

There have been a couple three-day weekends this quarter, and over Labour Day October 25 we spent time visiting our near-Southern neighbors in Moeraki and Oamaru. The first stop was lunch at Fleur's Place, the renowned port-side fresh fish institution overseen by the iconic Fleur Sullivan (visited and blogged about several times over the years). 

Everything is praise-worthy including this chocolate and quince cake. Yum!

Visiting Oamaru is a trip to the 19th century, walking the streets lined with neoclassical buildings made of iconic Oamaru whitestone.

Oamaru Saturday Farmers' Market

 

 We spent the night in Oamaru at a boutique inn we read about in a NZ travel magazine, Pen-y-bryn Lodge. Although new to us, it has been lovingly restored and run by a pair of ex-pat Yanks for over ten years. The hosts could not be more gracious.

In the foyer with C. Samas custom-made masks

The highlight was the included breakfast, a veritable feast of home-baked goods and fresh local products. There was so much delicious food that we were too full to continue on to the full cooked brekkie (very unusual for us!). They also offer a custom dinner experience if you order in advance. (Next time!)

A small sample of the breakfast fare

 Mid-November I needed some R&R. One of my recent realizations is how stressful and tiring my job can be. We had such a relaxing and quiet beach time in Golden Bay/Abel Tasman NP early in the year, so decided on a return visit, along with a ferry-ride over to Wellington to see our son-from-another-set-of-parents Dr. Florry O'Connell. Flo recently returned from Ireland to NZ.

Since it is a nine-hour to drive to Golden Bay from Timaru, we broke up the trips coming and going with stops in Hanmer Springs. We had two new discoveries this time in Hanmer: The Hanmer Springs Hotel and the MK Restaurant. Dating to 1932, the HS Hotel is a vintage grand inn, past its prime enough to be reasonably priced and old-shoe comfortable. 

The MK Restaurant was recommended to us by friend and fellow physician Eric Bindewald. The namesake of its two founders Mirek and Krystyna, the concept of this place is unlike any other dining experience I have had. Briefly, the menu features only dumplings and turnovers from around the world; empanadas, gyoza, pasties, pierogies, etc. This is true of the main courses and desserts. There is one set price for each course, even a universal price for glasses of wine on the menu, irrespective of vintage, country of origin, or variety. Care is taken to present every dish as a work of art, clearly a very time-consuming process. Taking a look at their gallery of photos will give you a better idea. Very unique dining experience, reservations are a must.

Our dessert at the MK. Blueberry pierogie plus other stuff.

We once again stayed in a beach villa at the Adrift in Golden Bay, my current favorite place to stay in New Zealand. It's quiet, relaxing, with welcoming owners and beach access that goes on seemingly forever.

A major obstacle to visiting the Golden Bay area is navigating the narrow, twisty, and frequently under repair road over Takaka Hill. An area of karst and marble, I'm told the summit area served as a stand-in for Chetwood Forest and the backdrop for certain Lord of the Rings battle scenes.

The geology creates the substrate for many caves and sinkholes. We toured Ngarua Cave, apparently accidentally discovered by locals in 1884. It became the final resting place for some unfortunate and now extinct birds. The bones of a large moa are still in situ.

Stalactites (I always get that confused)

It was on to the ferry for Wellington to see Florry. It had been a too long two years since Flo and his folks visited us in Timaru. We had time to catch up and hear about his last year in Ireland. Dealing with COVID made work very difficult and limited his ability to spend time with family (including beloved new niece Lucy) and friends there. Mostly we bonded over eating well: breakfast, Japanese, Deli, Greek, gelato....it was all good.

The BEST French Toast EVER!-Tsoureki french toast, orange curd, roasted strawberries with mascarpone and bacon at the August Cafe

The weather was unusually calm and sunny which made for long walks around the harbour.

Rowers out in the morning

Solace in the Wind by Max Patté (2008)

The Tale of the Whale by Colin Webster Watson (2004)

Carter Memorial Fountain

Stuffed to the gills, it was back to the South Island and two nights at the Awaroa Lodge inside Abel Tasman National Park for more beach, birds, walking, and relaxation.

The photogenic Split Apple Rock makes another blog appearance.

Variable oystercatcher/tōrea pango

A paradise shelduck/pūtangitangi and ducklings, New Zealand’s only shelduck

It was then back to Timaru with plenty of time to help prepare for Thanksgiving. Jane and Spaeth and Steve Slagle once again generously opened up their new home for the Saturday gathering (as Thursday is no holiday here). I volunteered to buy and roast the guest of honor. With the help of the New York Times food section, I think everything turned out exceptionally well.

Pecan Pie

"Pumpkin" pie made with canned butternut squash

Fayne's cranberry sauce courtesy of the Pritchett's cranberries

And finally, here are two notes of a botanical nature, both in praise of Fayne. After a lifelong lack of success in the garden, this spring she decided to plant some veges anyway. Well, they are all doing remarkably well. See if you can identify: Broccoli, zucchini (aka courgette), sweet pea, tomato, corn, meyer lemon, and beetroot.

Also, the cherry tree she planted for me years ago is bearing some lovely fruit.

Sadly, since we head back to the USA on December 20, 2021, we will not be able to enjoy the cornucopia that awaits the birds and neighbors.

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, Happy New Year to all of you readers as we boldly go into the great unknown, 2022!