Friday, November 18, 2016

Of Quizzes and Quakes: Reflections on Triumph and Defeat



Many thanks to everyone who reached out to me after the recent powerful earthquake in New Zealand. We are suffered no ill effects in Timaru. It primarily struck in a beautiful but sparsely populated area 200 miles north of here, in Kaikoura. Fortunately only two people were reported to have died, but the destruction to infrastructure and transportation will take a long time and lots of money to repair. It is yet another reminder (as if we need it) of how fragile our world can be.
U Ram It Pub Quiz Team -Champs of the South Island- Photo by John Bisset Fairfax
Now for the good news: my eight-person team went to Auckland on November 12, 2016 to participate in the 17th Annual New Zealand Pub Quiz Championship 2016. We came, we saw, we finished 15th equal (or tied for 15th in US English). Out of the total 61 teams there were four from the South Island, U Ram It finished the highest, allowing us to declare ourselves Champs of the South!
Final scores. Look carefully at the 18th line.

The name U Ram It was suggested by team member Dr. Sam Fussey, and you might have noticed it is Timaru spelled backwards. The logo and Tees were designed by me, and I think they came out well.
The logo is mirror image of Timaru
My backside


The quiz was a grueling five hours long and including a round of tasting and naming seven cheeses and three wines in order of certainty (i.e.: at first wrong answer, no further points are awarded). We all easily identifies a sliver of Swiss cheese and we put it #1 on the list, but the answer they wanted was Emmental (!?!) so we got zero out of ten points for that round.
Sam and the team take the taste test

I have had my eye on participating in this event for two years and it exceeded my expectations, which were to go, not finish last, and have a good time. Check, check, and checkmate. Thanks to the rest of my team for going with me this adventure; Sam, Renee, Cushla, Connaire, Stephen, Paul, and of course Fayne.
A panorama of the quiz with U Ram It at the middle table


It was good just to get away to Auckland for the weekend. As we head into the Holiday Season, Auckland is once again erecting a giant Santa on Queen Street, the main drag.
Previous versions of Santa have had him menacingly winking and beckoning with his finger, and led many to give him the title of “World’s Creepiest Christmas Ornament”. St. Nick has had some recent cosmetic surgery, and the winking and beckoning finger have been eliminated. Click here for further history, and here for the full Top Eleven list.


Another thing that has brought me joy lately is the appearance of some fruit on our young cherry trees. After we moved in to our house last year Fayne did some modest yard improvement, and knowing my love for cherries had a pair of saplings planted. Looking quite dormant over the winter, they have revived this spring and even produced some small green fruits, as yet inedible but with a promise for the future.


Now for the elephant in the room: the election of Donald Trump as our next US President. This disturbed me much more deeply than I expected. In my own way I have struggled to come to terms with this. When I could bear to think about it, I felt a compulsion to coherently sort out my thoughts and feelings. (If one believes in omens, perhaps the Cubs winning the World Series for the first time in 108 years, or Ireland beating the All Blacks for the first time in rugby in the 111 year history of their contests had a darker significance.)
What follows is a long exposition on how I responded emotionally to the news, trying to make a case that perhaps it will not be as disastrous as I fear, but also expressing skepticism, and finally enunciating what values I cherish. This has been very therapeutic for me, but please feel free to skip this if it is still too painful for you, or if you don’t really want to know what I think and feel.

Trump

On December 26, 2004 a massive earthquake struck and caused death and destruction from Indonesia to Africa, killing about 270,000 people. It was powerful enough to alter the rotation of the planet and shorten the day. In my lifetime, I have experienced four major intra-psychic temblors that fundamentally shook up my world view.
My personal list includes:
  1.  Friday November 22, 1963- I was in 8th grade the day JFK was assassinated
  2.  Saturday October 15, 1988- Game 1 of the 85th World Series, a great Oakland A’s team was ahead in the 9th inning with two out and the amazing Dennis Eckersley on the mound when a severely hobbled Kirk Gibson hit a 3-2 pitch out to the right field bleachers to win the game for the Dodgers. (Admittedly, a very trivial choice but as an avid A’s fan in the stands in LA, it did shake my reality and makes me wince to this day).
  3. Tuesday September 11, 2001, and
  4. Wednesday November 9, 2016- in New Zealand excruciatingly hearing the news of Donald Trump winning the election (remember, NZ is one day ahead).
I generally process things analytically and at a distance (at times to a fault), but these events all struck at a deep involuntary limbic level. I lost appetite, couldn't sleep, had trouble concentrating, was too stunned to watch the news or interact with people normally. I was also drawn to things to try to give me an endorphin jolt: "comfort" junk foods, loud rock music, wishing I could dance mindlessly until exhausted.

Since then, I have struggled to understand why this election has affected me and many others so savagely. It is not that I thought it couldn’t happen, but that it wouldn’t happen. I knew that as a major party nominee he had a significant chance to win, and I experienced a severe and chronic amount of anxiety and worry over that prospect during the interminable campaign, with a crescendo in the last few weeks.

The thought that even 5% of my country would respond to his message was deeply disturbing to me.   60 million Americans voted for Trump! We all know people who did, and some are reading this now. They are the one’s responsible for the results of this election. I choose not to say “blame” because by definition that means I know this decision will turn out badly. I worry that this will be the case, but I am not 100% certain of how this all will play out. I have reasons for my fears, but past performance does not always predict the future. To be clear, the heart of his message was racially charged, misogynistic, hateful, angry, mean-spirited, fear-mongering, and filled with easily exposed lies. Added to this are questions about his temperament or his wild foreign policy stances, which deeply concerns much of the rest of the world. Those Americans who marked their ballots for him either:
  1. Did not recognize this;
  2. Saw it and agreed with it; or
  3. Saw it and decided in spite of all this, voting for Trump was the best use of their ballot.
To the first two groups, I doubt you will listen to anything I might say. To the third group, you must have decided you will benefit in some way important enough to tolerate his abhorrent behavior. I expect most people to vote for whom they think will be best for them, not necessarily who may be best for their neighbors, the country, or the world. I hope what motivated you most was a desire for a positive change in your lives: a better job, more money, more sense of security, a cure to drug addiction problems in your communities. I hope for your sake some of those things get better under the next government. If you don't get any of that, and the worst parts of Trumps agenda lead to widespread suffering for others by taking away health insurance from tens of millions of people, ripping families apart, encouraging white supremacy and xenophobia and sexism, then you all have been duped. If what you most desired most was to express anger and to make others’ lives worse, the satisfaction you feel may be short-lived.

Donald Trump has been in the public eye for over 40 years with his history and public statements are widely available.  To his credit, he made no real effort to hide his personality or his platform. At times it seemed as if he was trolling the whole country, flinging accusations at his opponents that were more apt descriptions of himself. I found it particularly ironic that he liked to quote this 1960's R&B song (ostensibly to criticize Hillary or refugees, I'm not sure which):
"Oh shut up, silly woman," said the reptile with a grin
You knew damn well I was a snake before you took me in"- from  The Snake, written by Oscar Brown
Specifically, I cannot forgive or forget his initial political claim to fame: pushing the hateful Birther lie, attempting to make a twice elected president somehow illegitimate. People don't like to be considered racist, but the fact is we all have deep-seated conscious and unconscious biases. For example, studies have shown when absolutely identical patient scenarios, say a broken bone presenting to the Emergency Department, people of color will be treated differently and receive less pain medicine.  It is deep in all our souls and our society, although we may not recognize it. You may not agree with any policy or action taken by President Obama, but if you believed the Birther Lie, you are racist.  In the same way, Trump said many times of Hillary "she should not be allowed to run for President", a clear and indefensible attempt to de-legitimize her.  And of course, he then boldly lied that Hillary started Birtherism and he ended it. It is hard for me to ignore that he choose to vilify China while praising Russia, and crudely attacked Megyn Kelly, the conservative Fox News host when she reported things he didn’t like. His bilious rage centered primarily on the non-whites and non-males. Nasty man!

The ball is squarely in the Republicans' court. They won. Now let us really see how they will govern. Had Hillary won, there was plenty of reason to suspect even worse gridlock and do-nothingness in Congress than Obama has faced most of his tenure. Some promised continued endless investigations into Hillary’s “scandals”, possible impeachment, and stone-walling the Supreme Court nominees for at least four years. Perhaps whatever they do may address some issues like the national debt and our crumbling infrastructure. Let’s see what they really do about immigration and world affairs and health care, large and chronic issues that have not been resolved in part because of their complexity.
For things to turn out better than expected, Mr. Trump will have to back away from some of his most draconian and odious proposals, not impossible but unlikely. He would have to have a "Saul of Tarsus on the road to Damascus" moment of dramatic change. He is 70 years old and just pulled off the largest upset in US Presidential politics, so he might not be inclined to change.
It is almost certain that I personally will be affected much less than the most vulnerable; the poor, the disabled, non-white people, women. America has never been perfect, and there are many dark periods in US and World history.  You may take comfort in that so far, we have been through worse periods and survived, and things eventually did improve. Or you may look in despair at the horrific tragedies in just in the last 100 years. It feels like the 1930's. There is something going on world-wide. Look at Brexit, the current President of the Philippines, and the rise of right-wing movements in Europe. 

We are reminded of Godwin's Law, which posits that "As an online discussion grows longer, sooner or later someone will compare someone or something to Hitler”. This may not be that, but horrible things have happened before and can happen again. Bad things start somehow, and lack of concern or even contempt of our fellow man and woman seems a good place to begin. Not overlooking very shameful parts of American history, I have always taken pride in what I learned as core founding American Principles. It is not an exaggeration to say these are being threatened. 
The American Revolution was fought for the right to a fair and speedy trial and freedoms of speech, press, and religion. We have had people locked up in Guantanamo for over a decade with no charges or court dates in sight. Our President-Elect has openly advocated torture, stop-and-frisk, and international war crimes. He has openly been hostile to the press, to any critics, to non-whites and women, and people of the Muslim faith. I prefer to live in a world with leaders who exhibit rational thought, respect for others, compassion, fairness, esteem for science, and who value the search for truth. I fear losing the good things about my country and that the world will be a worse place. I hope I am wrong.



Monday, October 24, 2016

Olympians, Victorians, and Marsupials (Oh My!!)

Life back in Timaru since coming back from the US three months ago quickly settled into our now-familiar routine: work, Tuesday dinners with colleagues, Wednesday night Pub Quiz at the Sail and Anchor, a few regular Kiwi TV shows, a movie on the non-working weekends, and an occasional weekend outing. It is all comfortable but does not make for scintillating fodder for a blog so I deferred until now. Enough interesting stuff? You will be the judge.
Local news has largely been dominated by the horrific and embarrassing US election campaign, as it has at home and around the globe. The debates have been carried live here and in Australia (and Iran, I understand). As Tom Hanks said of the last debate on SLN:
The  debate is “like the third Lord of the Rings movie: You don’t really want to watch, but hey, you’ve come this far.”
PLEASE MAKE IT STOP!!!!

In other new, the Junior Doctors have just finished a two day strike action to protest working shifts (not 24 hours) over 12 consecutive days. This has been controversial even among themselves. with several declining to participate. We covered the situation here well without any major problems. I have some conflicting opinions on this topic. On the one hand, part of what makes my work here so humane is that there is a strong union representing the Senior Doctors like me, so I can't begrudge them that. I also try to fight against becoming one of those grumpy old "You kids get off of my lawn!!! Why back in my day we worked blah blah blah !!!" guys. But sometimes the pendulum can swing too far. As a physician there will be times when you need to function in less than ideal circumstances, when tired and stressed. In is important to be exposed to that while in training. Also the fewer shifts you work the fewer patients you see, and I believe patient contact is the most important element of learning this craft. It will all be sorted, I am sure.
Another major news event in the last quarter was the Rio Olympics. New Zealand avidly follows and celebrates any Kiwi achievements on the world stage. Timaru in particular has a proud and distinguished Olympic history, and was considered the #3 NZ Olympic Town in this Olympic preview. First and foremost was Jack Lovelock, a remarkable local athlete who set a world record and won the gold medal in the 1936 Berlin Games 1500 meters. Like all winners, Jack was given an oak sapling from Adolph Hitler which grows today at his alma mater, Timaru Boys' High School.
"Hitler's Oak"
Bronze Statue of Jack Lovelock

Jack was also a Rhodes scholar and Physician. He moved to New York City after WWII with his American wife and died tragically in 1949 after falling in front of a subway train.
The Olympic tradition continues through 2016. The first New Zealander to medal, silver medalist in Woman's Trap shooting, was our own Natalie Rooney, and later she was joined when local Tom Walsh won bronze in the Men's Shot Put.
Tom pimping milk
Our big adventure recently was a delightful 9-day Australian trip to Melbourne and the state of Victoria at the end of September. Revisiting Melbourne has been on my list since our very abbreviated overnight stay in June 2011. (For details of that you can link to my original posting from my first NZ blog.) For many, Melbourne is their favorite Australian city and we wanted enough time to decide for ourselves.
It is about a 3½ hour flight from Christchurch across the Tasman Sea and we flew over Friday September 23. The weather for the visit was mostly cloudy with frequent showers, but it hardly mattered. This is a place with an almost endless array of indoor activities. Gastronomically there are many fine ethnic restaurants from which to choose. Coming from Timaru to Melbourne is like going from Fort Bragg to San Francisco.  Staying in the heart of Greektown in a city with the one of  the largest population of ex-pat Greeks, I enjoyed my fill of some of the best Hellenic dishes I have ever had, and that includes in Greece. We lodged a few doors down from a bakery stacked with the desserts of my youth, bringing back memories of my Î³Î¹Î±Î³Î¹Î¬'s  baking.

Koloudia and Rizogalo
Add to that tons of Chinese, Thai, Mexican, Italian, African, and you-name-it cuisines and you have a gourmand's paradise. There is also the Queen Victoria Market, the largest open air market in the Southern Hemisphere. Established in 1878 first as a fruit and vegetable market, it has expanded in size and scope to include almost everything you can imagine.
The meat section of the Queen Victoria Market
Before or after eating, there was time for other activities. The large complex at Federation Square houses the Visitor Centre, the Australian Centre for the Moving Image, the National Gallery of Victoria Australia, restaurants, open spaces, and buskers.
Federation Square at Sunset  (Photo from their official web site)
In the atrium, we encountered the giant suspended baby called Ping Pong.
The Human Mobile, a work of art by Filipe Reynolds
The National Gallery specializes in local and indigenous art. Here and around Victoria you  will notice many representations of the Bunjil, or wedge-tailed eaglehawk, as it is considered a creator deity by local tribes.

Noir Bird Man 2 by Bruce Armstrong
Tingarri story at Kiwirrkura by Fred Ward Tjungurrayi
Melbourne is a film-lover's delight. In addition to the Centre for the Moving Image and the Cinémathèque (we caught up with the documentary Weiner!  there), there seems to be one Movie Festival after another. Italian Films were featured during our week, with Latin, Jewish, Arab, and French programs coming soon. We took in La Felicita e un Sistema Complesso (The Complexity of Happiness) (recommended).
Tucked behind the Royal Exhibition Building, built for the 1880-81 Melbourne International Exhibition.....
Exhibition Building
....you will find the Melbourne Museum, home to the taxidermied hide of Phar Lap, the most famous and beloved ex-thoroughbred in Australasia. We HAD to visit as he was foaled in Timaru and we had seen his various other parts; his skeleton in Te Papa Museum in Wellington and his heart in the National Museum of Australia in Canberra. (Full disclosure: actually the heart was out for maintenance so only saw a picture of it in 2011. I also found this fascinating item from 2014 entitled "Phar Lap: Missing pieces of horse's heart discovered in National Museum of Australia").

This raises one of the many gripes Kiwis have with their Aussie cousins; the feeling that many New Zealand icons have been appropriated by Oz with little or no attribution. When you visit Phar Lap in Melbourne you will find little recognition of his Timaru, NZ roots.
Australia is at least as sports-mad as the USA, so much so that the State of Victoria has public holidays before the Finals of Australian Rules Football (which occurred during our visit) and the first Tuesday in November for the Melbourne Cup horse race. In the US, we don't even get Superbowl Monday off! We didn't make it to the Aussie Rules "footy" final but we did make it to the NRL rugby league semi-final match between the Melbourne Storm and the Canberra Raiders.
The Storm down the Raiders at AAMI Park before a Finals loss to the Cronulla Sharks
One of the joys to having a little extra time in a new place is stumbling across the unexpected. A few blocks from our hotel I wandered into the State Library of Victoria, a grand 19th century edifice with a spectacular central dome. The recesses upstairs ringing the vast reading room are filled with historical artifacts, books, and artworks. You will also find the armour worn by bushranger Ned Kelly and his gang (which I saw also in 2011 while it was on loan to Canberra).
State Library of Victoria (photo from Wikipedia)


The Kelly Gang armour
There is a very efficient tram system throughout the city and it is easy to ride to the outlying neighborhoods such as the seaside suburb of St.Kilda. We mostly strolled around, taking in the view cityward from the end of the pier...

.... peeking into the Luna Amusement Park .....
.....and seeking out the Jewish Museum of Australia (unfortunately closed that day).
 
I haven't yet mentioned the shopping, theater, or the Melbourne Fringe Festival 2016. We caught two Fringe shows:
So to summarize Melbourne: great food, museums, movies, sports, festivals, and sights, with plenty of things left over for the next visit. It doesn't have Sydney's harborside natural beauty, but what's not to love!! 
We clearly could have spent the full eight nights there but I wanted to see some of the rest of the State of Victoria, so the last three nights we spent on the road. One of the most famous scenic trips in Australia is southwest of Melbourne along the southern coast and the Great Ocean Road. It is similar to motoring along the Pacific Coast Highway on a narrow twisting route with spectacular ocean views. Like the North Coast, recent rains had caused rockslides blocking parts of the roadway. We were able to make it to the area known as the Twelve Apostles where sandstone pillars jut out of the Southern Ocean. 
Matthew ? Mark? Luke? Thaddaeus??
It is not clear exactly which ones qualify as Apostles, as some have collapsed into the sea in recent years, but there are still plenty left. The geology and the waves have created other coastal formation, like bridges, arches, grottoes, blowholes, etc.

Loch Ard Gorge

The Arch

The Grotto

The left arch of London Bridge fell down in 1990
The Razorback
And another view of the Razorback
A bit further west, past Warrnambool, you will find Tower Hill Reserve, parkland jointly managed by the ancient Worn Gundidj aborigines and Parks Victoria. It is in a vast caldera formed by an eruption 30,000 years ago, and is a good place to find abundant indigenous flora and fauna.
Emu in carpark
A mob of kangaroos

Koala in tree

The Grampians as seen from the Pinnacle Lookout
From there we headed north to the rocky sandstone crags of Grampians National Park , AKA Gariwerd to local tribes. (Here is a tip for travelers: when you arrive in the airport in a new country or city, if you see stunning large photos of regional attractions, try to work them in your itinerary. Both the Twelve Apostles and the Grampians are proudly on view as you deplane in Melbourne.) The walk to Pinnacle Lookout was well worth it, with commanding views down on the village of Halls Gap where we stayed. At the summit a young Iranian couple rewarded us with Lindt chocolate balls and then phoned their family in the Middle East. Life in the 21st century!!
Approaching the Pinnacle Lookout
The last stop was Ballarat, a center of the 1850's Victoria gold rush, Many 19th century buildings remain.
Town Hall
Her Majesty's Theatre

Sugg lamp fronting the former National Mutual Insurance Co. Blgd.
Ballarat is also famous for the short-lived but very influential Eureka Rebellion. Gold miners had to pay exorbitant taxes and had no vote, so in 1854 they revolted, burned their mining licences, and held out in the makeshift Eureka Stockade. The uprising was brutally put down December 3, 1854, but although they lost the battle the protesters won the war. The taxes were abolished, voting rights secured, and the labour and democracy movements in Australia were founded. You can see the original flag of the rebellion at the Museum of Australian Democracy at Eureka (M. A. D. E.) on the site of the stockade.
The Eureka Flag
The museum also honors other democratic movements in history from around the globe. A current exhibit is about a project of Dr.Christina Henri called "Roses From the Heart".
It is described in part:
"For the past 13 years she's been working on a memorial - a massive work of art - to the thousands of convict women transported to Australia.
Christina invited people from around the world to make and contribute a servant's bonnet, symbolising the life of each of the 25,566 women who were transported from 1788 to 1853.
Christina has now received over 24,000 bonnets for what will, she hopes, become a permanent memorial in Tasmania".
Bonnets on display at the M. A. D. E.
That's all for now. In a few weeks will would head to Auckland with our crack team of eight to compete in the 2016 National Pub Quiz. Wish us luck! Then back home in December and January.
(To be continued.....)