Crossing a Few Things Off

We left SFO Wednesday January 22 and awoke two days later on Friday the 24th in Auckland, New Zealand. The title of the blog refers to the fact NZ is past the International Date Line, therefore one day ahead of the US, but most people notice a distinctly retro vibe, from the ambient music popular in the 70's and 80's, to an apparent simpler, more relaxed way of life we believe we led decades ago.

We have been in and out of Auckland several times, and lived here for over five months in 2012. I made many friends through my work at Auckland City Hospital, and my first stop was to visit the old crew. I was pleased to see the medical department had put the toaster oven I gifted them upon leaving to good use, and therefore associated me with warm, tasty snacks. Everyone was more than friendly, I attended Journal Club at noon, and had a free meal at their expense. 

The next day, my former chief Robyn and her partner John invited Fayne and me out to her renovated "bach" (pronounced like batch) on Waiheke Island, part of Auckland but worlds apart. A bach is a common Kiwi term best explained as a beach house or vacation bungalow. Robyn's family has had one on Waiheke (part Mendocino, part Catalina), which they have extensively remodeled since our last visit. The view off the deck of the Huaraki Gulf is impressive.....

and they have put a lot of work into the garden terraces out the back.

We were treated to a delicious and healthy lunch with home-baked bread, followed by a brief walk along the shore. It was a perfect welcome-back to New Zealand. (Our 4-yo granddaughter Kimarra has been told we are away to "an island", and asks us via computer "are you still on the island?")

Mts. Tongariro (L) and Nhauruhoe (R)

After two nights in Auckland, we rented a car and headed south down the North Island, a five-hour drive to Tongariro National Park.In two prior stays in NZ encompassing 16 months, we managed to do a once-over most of the country's "must-do's". One major exception was the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, a very popular 19.4 km (11.6 mi) traverse between two iconic active volcanoes, Mounts Tongoriro and Ngauruhoe (aka Mount Doom of the LOTR series). These two, along with Mt. Ruapehu (the most active, highest of the three, and home to NZ's largest ski resort) constitute the heart of the Kiwi's oldest national park, and the fourth oldest in the world. In 1887, Horonuku Te Heuheu Tukino IV, chief of the Ngati Tuwharetoa Maori, gifted this sacred land to the state. It is rich in native mythical and spiritual significance, and is one of the few places that is both a UNESCO World Heritage Site for both natural and cultural significance. We stayed at the Chateau Tongariro in the shawdow of Ruapehu.

When I tried in 2011 to do the crossing it was not possible due to poor weather. Since, I have learned it is a common occurrence for planned hikes to be sabotaged by inclement weather. I gave myself a three-day window to accomplish my goal this time. On Day One it poured (more rain than I had seen the last 18 months in California). Day Two I gave the weather time to settle, and it was calm and clear enough to take the chair-lift up Mount Ruapehu to "New Zealand's highest cafe" (and at 2020m, or 6400', I suspect the highest in all of Australasia), and to enjoy commanding views of the park and volcanic-sculpted features, like Meads Wall. 

Meads Wall

Day three was "the clearest day in a month", so I took the shuttle to the trail-head. The trek took me 8 hours, a fairly average time, without taking any side-trips, such as the estimated 3 extra hours to scramble up the to the top of Ngauruhoe, made more dangerous due to intermittent gale-force winds (ie: the reason it was "the clearest day in a month").

Mt. Ngauruhoe

The Crossing is full of iconic, volcanic vistas, and my photos hardly do it justice.

Red Crater in foreground of Mt.Ng...

A wayward pilgrim near the high point of the trail with Emerald Lake behind

Looking back from Blue Lake, across Central Crater to Red Crater, Mt. Ngauruhoe, and Mt. Ruapehu in the distance.

The last part of the trail descended down the north side of Tongariro, the site of the most recent eruption in August, 2012. One day prior to that event, we were on White Island, a volcanic island in the same chain, and missed the eruption by one day (if interested, look down near ths bottom of this long, prior blog posting).

Vent of the most recent eruption

It was a long and strenuous day, perhaps made more so by three factors: the altitude (nearly 6,000' at its highest), the gusty winds, and unstable footing in places. My advice for anyone in fair fitness planning on the Crossing: 1) Allow yourself a several-day window for passable conditions, 2) Only try it in good weather, and 3) Bring one or two walking sticks. Unless you are a glutton for punishment, don't do it in wet, foggy, or icy weather. You won't be able to see much, and it will be much more treacherous. Bottom line: it was worth doing, and I would consider doing it again sometime.
I treated myself to a grand dinner at the Chateau Tongariro, and the next day we headed off to Wellington. The drive is beautiful, and reminded me of the kooky road-side landmarks that are part of Kiwiana.

Giant Kiwi sculptures in Otorohanga

A gigantic gumboot in Taihape, looking for a mate